Olympic Buzz to Mountain Calm: Discovering the Dolomites
By Michelle Branco
I was in Milan mid-February for BIT Milano – Italy's biggest travel and hospitality trade show – and the timing couldn't have been better.
The city was buzzing with Olympic energy. Between meetings with our Italian partners and catching an incredible speed skating competition (women's 1000m), Milan felt electric. After a few fast-paced days, my husband Paulo met me at Milano Centrale and we headed north by train to Bolzano. Watching the city fade into countryside, then transform into dramatic alpine peaks – that transition is something Italy does so well.
Discovering Ortisei
A 35-minute transfer from Bolzano brought us to Ortisei, tucked into Val Gardena in the heart of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Picture this: pastel buildings, lit-up pedestrian streets, church spires, and mountains in every direction. It's the cozy alpine village you imagine, except somehow even better.
What makes this region fascinating is the cultural blend. You're in Italy, but with strong Austrian influence in the language, architecture, and especially the food. That unique Tyrolean heritage gives the whole area a character you won't find anywhere else.
Here's what surprised me: while it felt like the perfect little Christmas village in winter, we learned that summer is actually their busiest season. Hikers and nature lovers flock here for the trails and alpine scenery. It's truly year-round.
We arrived as the sun set behind the peaks, the day Carnival festivities kicked off. Cowboys, cows, masked figures, kids and adults in full costume. Skiers heading to après drinks. Live music in the streets. Our first impression was pretty magical.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Hotel Classic AM Stetteneck, a historic Tyrolean 4-star right in the heart of Ortisei's pedestrian zone. The service felt genuinely personal, and the location was unbeatable – less than 100 metres from two gondolas leading to Alpe di Siusi and the famous Sellaronda circuit.
After ski days, we'd head to the spa (thermal pool, saunas, steam room). Mornings started with excellent coffee and generous breakfast. Evenings ended in their cozy bar with perfectly made martinis and local wines.
The Skiing
Three days on the slopes with equipment from Carlos' Ski Rentals (highly recommend the drop-off and pick-up service). Our Dolomiti Superski pass gave us access to 1,200+ km of terrain across 12 regions.
The Dolomites are stunning in a way that almost feels unreal. Those jagged limestone peaks rising against blue sky are absolutely breathtaking.
We had expected crowds given the time of year (Italian holiday, school holidays, plus Carnival), but locals said the Olympics deterred many European regulars. With the exception of our first gondola, we didn't wait more than a minute anywhere. Incredible.
Day two, we tackled the Sellaronda – one of the world's most iconic ski circuits. About 40 kilometres circling the Sella Massif, connecting multiple valleys. We skied the green route in about five hours, including a long mountain lunch, an Aperol Spritz in the sunshine, and a few stops just to take it all in.
Here's what we loved: mountain huts everywhere. Every few hundred metres, there's another spot with incredible views, regional food, and this wonderfully convivial atmosphere. Ski culture here is social and unpretentious. Long lunches are encouraged. Sharing tables when it's busy becomes part of the experience of meeting people along the way.
For strong intermediate to advanced skiers, the terrain is expansive but very manageable. We also explored Alpe di Siusi – Europe's largest high alpine plateau with wide-open runs and sweeping views. Perfect for mixed-ability groups or anyone who values scenery as much as sport.
Après, Evenings & The Food
Après ski in Val Gardena hits a sweet spot – lively without overwhelming. One afternoon in nearby Selva, we found DJs and outdoor bars creating this perfect celebratory vibe. There's a warmth here, a communal spirit.
Back in Ortisei, evenings felt cozy. Wine bars tucked into side streets, shops beautifully lit and glowing warmly. That blend of Italian flair and Tyrolean tradition makes the region feel distinct.
And the food? South Tyrol's cuisine reflects its unique position. Pasta, gnocchi, excellent pizza – but also speck, hearty mountain dishes, incredible cheeses, fresh breads, rich alpine specialties. The Alto Adige wine region is right there. We fell in love with the local Pinot Noir.
In my opinion, this might be one of Italy's most underrated food destinations.
Getting There
We combined the Dolomites with Milan, which worked well for us given my trade show timing. The train from Milan to Bolzano is scenic and efficient, though it's a longer transfer including a line change in Verona.
Worth noting: if you're primarily focused on skiing, flying into Innsbruck, Verona, Venice, or Munich can significantly shorten transfers depending on where in the Dolomites you're headed. Combining the Dolomites with one of these world class cities including Milan would be a great balanced vacation, though I would easily spend a full week in Val Gardena next time I go.
Perfect for travellers wanting a refined European ski experience without the flash of bigger resorts, incredible food and wine alongside outdoor adventure, or an Italy experience beyond the Rome-Florence-Venice route.

My Takeaway
Milan brought the energy. The Dolomites brought the beauty and calm.
This trip reminded me that Italy keeps surprising us – with so much to offer, even after 45 years of our team sending travellers here. Beyond the iconic cities and coastlines lies a region where culture, cuisine, and alpine adventure blend so uniquely.
And that balance for me, is what makes it unforgettable.
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